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This German Fashion Designer Has His Own Eponymous Fashion Label

Written By Monday, April 4, 2022 Add Comment Edit

German language way designer

Karl Lagerfeld
Karl Lagerfeld 2014.jpg

Lagerfeld in 2014
Born

Karl Otto Lagerfeld


(1933-09-ten)ten September 1933

Hamburg, Germany
Died 19 February 2019(2019-02-19) (aged 85)

Neuilly-sur-Seine, Hauts-de-Seine, France
Education Lycée Montaigne, Paris

Label(s)
  • Fendi (1965–2019)[1]
  • Chanel (1983–2019)[ii]
  • Karl Lagerfeld (1984–2019)[three]

Other labels

  • Jean Patou (1958–1963)[4]
  • Chloé (1963–1978, 1992–1997)[5]
  • H&Grand (2004)
  • Hogan (2011)
  • Macy's (2011)
  • Falabella (2017)[6]
Partner(s) Jacques de Bascher (1971–1989, i.e. de Bascher's expiry)
Parent(s)
  • Otto Lagerfeld (father)
Website karl.com (in German)
Signature
Signature Karl Lagerfeld.jpg

Karl Otto Lagerfeld (German pronunciation: [kaʁl ˈʔɔtoː ˈlaːɡɐˌfɛlt] ( audio speaker icon listen ); x September 1933 – nineteen Feb 2019) was a German artistic manager, manner designer, artist, photographer, and caricaturist.[7] [8]

He was known equally the creative director of the French way house Chanel, a position held from 1983 until his death, and was also artistic director of the Italian fur and leather appurtenances mode firm Fendi, and of his ain eponymous way label. He collaborated on a variety of fashion and art-related projects.

Lagerfeld was recognized for his signature white hair, blackness sunglasses, fingerless gloves, and loftier, starched, detachable collars.

Early life [edit]

Lagerfeld was born on 10 September 1933 in Hamburg, to Elisabeth (née Bahlmann) and businessman Otto Lagerfeld.[ix] His father owned a company that produced and imported evaporated milk; while his maternal grandpa, Karl Bahlmann, was a local pol for the Catholic Centre Party.[9] His family belonged to the Old Catholic Church building. When Lagerfeld's mother met his father, she was a lingerie saleswoman from Berlin. His parents married in 1930.[10]

Lagerfeld was known to misrepresent his birth twelvemonth, challenge to be younger than his actual age, and to misrepresent his parents' groundwork. For case, he claimed that he was built-in in 1938 to "Elisabeth of Deutschland" and Otto Ludwig Lagerfeldt .[11] These claims have been conclusively proven to exist fake, as his father was from Hamburg and spent his entire life in Germany, with no Swedish connection.[9] [10] At that place is also no evidence that his mother Elisabeth Bahlmann, the daughter of a middle-form local political leader, called herself "Elisabeth of Germany".[x] He was known to insist that no one knows his real nascency date. In an interview on French telly in February 2009, Lagerfeld said that he was "built-in neither in 1933 nor 1938".[12]

In April 2013, he finally declared that he was born in 1935.[13] A birth declaration was, nonetheless, published by his parents in 1933, and the baptismal annals in Hamburg also lists him as born in that yr, showing that he was born on 10 September 1933.[14] Bild am Sonntag published his baptismal records in 2008 and interviewed his teacher and a classmate, who both confirmed that he was born in 1933. The same was later confirmed by his expiry record.[fifteen] Despite that, Karl Lagerfeld appear publicly that he was celebrating his "70th birthday" on x September 2008, despite actually turning 75.[xvi] [17] [18]

His older sis, Martha Christiane "Christel", was born in 1931. Lagerfeld had an older one-half-sister, Theodora Dorothea "Thea", from his male parent's first marriage. His family name has been spelled both Lagerfeldt (with a "t") and Lagerfeld. Like his father, he used the spelling Lagerfeld, considering it to "sound more commercial".[19]

His family was mainly shielded from the deprivations of Globe War 2 due to his male parent's business organization interests in Germany through the firm Glücksklee-Milch GmbH.[20] [21] His father had been in San Francisco during the 1906 earthquake.[22]

As a child, he showed nifty interest in visual arts, and erstwhile schoolmates recalled that he was always making sketches "no matter what we were doing in course".[23] Lagerfeld told interviewers that he learned much more past constantly visiting the Kunsthalle Hamburg museum than he always did in schoolhouse.[24] [25]

Career [edit]

Early career, Chloé, and Fendi (1954–1982) [edit]

In 1954, Lagerfeld submitted a dress design to the International Wool Secretariat's design contest that presaged the chemise dresses that would be introduced by Givenchy and Balenciaga in 1957.[26]

In 1955, after living in Paris for 2 years, Lagerfeld entered a coat blueprint competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat. He won the coat category and befriended Yves Saint Laurent, who won the clothes category, and was soon after hired past Pierre Balmain. He worked as Balmain's assistant, and later apprentice, for three years.[27] [28]

In 1958, Lagerfeld became the creative manager for Jean Patou. In 1964, he went to Rome to study art history and work for Tiziani but was shortly designing freelance for a multitude of brands, including Charles Jourdan, Chloé, Krizia, and Valentino.[29]

In 1967, he was hired by Fendi to modernize their fur line. Lagerfeld's innovative designs proved groundbreaking, every bit he introduced the utilise of mole, rabbit, and squirrel pelts into high style. Lagerfeld remained with Fendi Rome until his decease.[29]

In the 1970s, his work for Chloé made him one of the most prominent designers in the earth,[30] [31] often vying with Yves Saint Laurent for near influential.[32] [33] After a period in the early seventies when he toyed with styles from the 1930s and '50s,[34] [35] in 1974 he contributed to the burgeoning Big Wait or Soft Look past eliminating linings, padding, and even hemming from voluminous, thin-fabric garments to enable an unencumbered, comfortable, layered style that would dominate the high mode of the middle of the decade.[36] [37] [38] [39] After refining this mode, he did a complete about-face in 1978[40] and joined other designers in showing the heavily constructed, huge-shouldered, more than restrictive looks that would boss the 1980s, presenting such an exaggerated retro 1940s-50s silhouette – immense shoulder pads;[41] astringent, stiffly synthetic suits with padded lampshade peplums;[42] padded busts and hips; impractically tight skirts; awkwardly high spike heels; hats; gloves; even boned corsets[43] – that his work did not look out of place aslope similar retro fare from Thierry Mugler of the flow.[44]

International fame with Chanel (1982–2000) [edit]

Lagerfeld is credited with making keen use of Chanel's "CC" logo during the 1980s[29]

In the 1980s, Lagerfeld was hired by Chanel, which was considered a "near-expressionless brand" at the time since the death of designer Coco Chanel a decade prior. Lagerfeld brought life back into the company, making it a huge success past revamping its ready-to-wear mode line.[three] [27] Lagerfeld integrated the interlocked "CC" monograph of Coco Chanel into a way pattern for the House of Chanel.[29] [45]

In 1984, a year after his start at Chanel, Lagerfeld began his own eponymous "Karl Lagerfeld" brand. The brand was established to aqueduct "intellectual sexiness".[3]

Later career (2001–2019) [edit]

Fashion [edit]

In 2002, Lagerfeld asked Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel, to collaborate with him on a special denim collection for the Lagerfeld Gallery.[46] The drove, Lagerfeld Gallery by Diesel fuel, was co-designed by Lagerfeld and then developed past Diesel fuel's artistic team, under the supervision of Rosso. It consisted of five pieces that were presented during the designer's catwalk shows during Paris Style Calendar week[47] and and so sold in highly limited editions at the Lagerfeld Galleries in Paris and Monaco and at the Diesel Denim Galleries in New York and Tokyo. During the first calendar week of sales in New York, more than ninety% of the trousers were sold out, fifty-fifty though prices ranged from $240 to $ane,840.[48] In a argument later the bear witness in Paris, Rosso said: "I am honored to have met this fashion icon of our time. Karl represents creativity, tradition and claiming, and the fact that he thought of Diesel for this collaboration is a great souvenir and acknowledgement of our reputation as the prêt-à-porter of casual wear".[47]

In December 2006, Lagerfeld announced the launch of a new collection for men and women dubbed K Karl Lagerfeld, which included fitted T-shirts and a wide range of jeans.[49] In September 2010, the Couture Council of The Museum at the Way Institute of Engineering presented Lagerfeld with an award created for him, The Couture Council Way Visionary Award, at a benefit lunch at Avery Fisher Hall, in New York City.[l] In Nov 2010, Lagerfeld and Swedish crystal manufacturer Orrefors announced a collaboration to pattern a crystal fine art collection.[51] The first collection was launched in jump 2011, called Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld.[52]

In 2014, Palm Beach Modern Auctions announced that many of Lagerfeld's early sketches for the Firm of Tiziani in Rome would be sold.[53] [54]

Lagerfeld'southward piece of work in fashion houses garnered him to be considered the Chameleon of manner. Said by Anna Sui and Clare Waight Keller, they emphasized Lagerfeld's ability to elevate the rich history of fashion houses into the mod-mean solar day context.[55] [56]

Final collection [edit]

The concluding Chanel drove completed before his death had an Alpine theme of après-ski habiliment. As Lagerfeld requested non to accept whatever type of funeral, the prove just included a moment of silence in his honor and chairs emblazoned with his paradigm next to Coco Chanel with the saying "the beat out goes on".[57] Although Lagerfeld shunned whatever emotional reactions around the idea of his decease, some models could be seen crying on the runway, also every bit audience members.[58]

Bandage of Karl Lagerfeld's tribute testify

Model

Nationality
Adesuwa Aighewi American
Adut Akech Australian
Aivita Muze Latvian
Alberte Mortensen Danish
Alexandra Micu Romanian
Alina Bolotina Russian
Alyssah Paccoud Canadian
Amanda Googe American
Amanda Sanchez Brazilian
Anna Ewers High german
Anok Yai American
Binx Walton American
Birgit Kos Dutch
Camille Hurel French
Cara Delevingne (opened the evidence)[59] British
Carolina Thaler Brazilian
Catherine McNeil Australian
Charlotte Rose Hansen American
Cristina Herrmann Brazilian
Deirdre Fírinne Dutch-Irish
Eliza Kallmann German
Emerson Lang British
Emm Arruda Canadian
Faretta Croation
Felice Nova Noordhoff Dutch
Fran Summers British
Giselle Norman British
Grace Elizabeth American
Greta Varlese Italian
Hyun Ji Shin Due south Korean
Ine Neefs Dutch
Jing Wen Chinese
Julia Ratner Ukrainian
Kaia Gerber American
Kat Carter American
Kiki Willems Dutch
Kris Grikaite Russian
Lauren de Graaf Dutch
Laurijn Bijnen Dutch
Léa Julian French
Lexi Boling American
Lia Pavlova Russian
Lily Stewart American
Luna Bijl (airtight the show)[59] Dutch
Maike Inga Dutch
Maria Miguel Portuguese
Mariacarla Boscono Italian
Marjan Jonkman Dutch
Mathilde Henning Danish
Maud Hoevelaken Dutch
Mica Argañaraz Argentine
Miriam Sánchez Castilian
Moira Berntz Argentine
Mona Tougaard Danish
Niko Maticevic Croatian
Nina Fresneau French
Nina Marker Danish
Nora Attal British
Ola Rudnicka Smoothen
Penélope Cruz Spanish
Rebecca Leigh Longendyke American
Rianne Van Rompaey Dutch
Sara Dijkink Dutch
Sara Grace Wallerstedt American
Sarah Dahl Danish
Selena Forrest American
Soo Joo Park American
Tami Williams Jamaican
Vanessa Hartong High german
Vika Evseeva Russian
Vittoria Ceretti Italian
Yasmin Wijnaldum Dutch

Other media [edit]

Lagerfeld and investments enterprise Dubai Infinity Holdings (DIH) signed a deal to design limited edition homes on the island of Isla Moda.[60] [61] A feature-length documentary moving picture on the designer, Lagerfeld Confidential, was fabricated by Vogue in 2007. After in the year, Lagerfeld was fabricated the host of the fictional radio station K109—the studio in the video game Grand Theft Auto 4, and its DLCs The Lost & Damned and The Ballad of Gay Tony.[62]

In 2008, he created a teddy comport in his likeness produced past Steiff in an edition of two,500 that sold for $1,500.[63] and has been immortalized in many forms, which include pins, shirts, dolls, and more. In 2009, Tra Tutti began selling Karl Lagermouse and Karl Lagerfelt, which are mini-Lagerfelds in the forms of mice and finger puppets, respectively.[64] The same year, he lent his voice to the French animated film, Totally Spies! The Movie.[65]

Late in life, Lagerfeld realized one of his boyhood ambitions by becoming a professional caricaturist – from 2013, his political cartoons were regularly published in the German newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.[66] [67]

In 2013, he directed the brusque film In one case Upon a Time... in the Cité du Cinéma, Saint-Denis, past Luc Besson, featuring Keira Knightley in the role of Coco Chanel and Clotilde Hesme equally her aunt Adrienne Chanel.[68] In June 2016, information technology was announced that Lagerfeld would design the two residential lobbies of the Estates at Acqualina, a residential evolution in Miami's Sunny Isles Beach.[69]

In October 2018, Lagerfeld in collaboration with Carpenters Workshop Gallery launched an fine art collection of functional sculptures titled Architectures. Sculptures were made of Arabescato Fantastico, a rare vibrant white marble with nighttime grayness veins and black Nero Marquina marble with milky veins. Inspired by antiquity and referred to as modern mythology the ensemble consists of gueridons, tables, lamps, consoles, fountains and mirrors.[70]

Personal life [edit]

Lagerfeld was recognized for his signature white hair, blackness sunglasses, fingerless gloves, and high, starched detachable collars.[71]

He had an 18-year relationship with the French aristocrat, model, and socialite Jacques de Bascher (1951–1989), though Lagerfeld said that the liaison never became sexual.[72] "I infinitely loved that male child," Lagerfeld reportedly said of de Bascher, "but I had no physical contact with him. Of course, I was seduced by his physical amuse."[73] De Bascher also had an affair with the couturier Yves Saint-Laurent; subsequently, Saint-Laurent's business organization partner and former lover Pierre Bergé accused Lagerfeld of beingness behind a gambit to destabilize the rival fashion house.[73] De Bascher died of AIDS in 1989 while Lagerfeld stayed on a cot at his bedside in his hospital room during the final stages of his illness.

Following Lagerfeld's death, tabloids reported that he was to be cremated and his ashes mixed with those of de Bascher, which Lagerfeld kept in an urn, or with those of his female parent.[74] [75]

Lagerfeld lived in numerous homes over the years: an apartment in the rue de fifty'Université in Paris, decorated in the Fine art Deco way (1970s); the 18th-century Chateau de Penhoët in Brittany, decorated in the Rococo style (1970s to 2000); an flat in Monte Carlo busy until 2000 in 1980s Memphis style (from the early 1980s); the Villa Jako in Blankenese in Hamburg, decorated in the Art Deco manner (mid-1990s to 2000); the Villa La Vigie in Monaco (the 1990s to 2000), a 17th-century mansion (hôtel particulier) in the Rue de l'Université in Paris, decorated in the Rococo and other styles (1980s to the 2000s); an apartment in Manhattan, although he never moved into or decorated it (2006 to 2012); the summertime villa El Horria in Biarritz, busy in the modern style (1990s–2006); and a house dating from the 1840s in Vermont (from the 2000s). From 2007, Lagerfeld owned an 1820s house in Paris in Quai Voltaire decorated in modern and Art Deco fashion.[76]

A spread with pictures inside Lagerfeld'southward apartments in Paris and Monaco was published in Faddy.[77] He also revealed his vast collection of Suzanne Belperron's pins and brooches and used the colour of one of her blue chalcedony rings every bit the starting point for the Chanel spring/summertime 2012 drove.[78]

Lagerfeld owned a red bespeak Birman cat named Choupette, which, in June 2013, he indicated he would marry, if information technology were legal.[79]

Weight loss [edit]

Lagerfeld lost 42 kg (93 lb) in 2001.[fourscore] He explained: "I suddenly wanted to dress differently, to wear wearing apparel designed past Hedi Slimane ... But these fashions, modeled by very, very slim boys—and not men my age—required me to lose at to the lowest degree twoscore kg. It took me exactly 13 months." The diet was created specially for him by Dr. Jean-Claude Houdret, which led to a book called The Karl Lagerfeld Diet. He promoted it on Larry King Alive and other television shows.[nineteen]

Book collecting [edit]

Lagerfeld was a passionate volume collector and amassed one of the largest personal libraries in the world. According to the Rare Book Hub, he was quoted every bit saying, "Today, I only collect books; there is no room left for something else. If you go to my house, I'll accept you walk effectually the books. I concluded upwardly with a library of 300,000. It'southward a lot for an individual."[81]

Death and tributes [edit]

Following health complications in January 2019, Lagerfeld was admitted to the American Infirmary of Paris in Parisian suburb Neuilly-sur-Seine on 18 February. He died there the following morning time from complications of pancreatic cancer.[82] [83] Lagerfeld requested no formal funeral with plans for cremation and ashes spread at secret locations alongside his mother as well as his late partner, Jacques de Bascher.[84] [85]

Lagerfeld was memorialized on 20 June 2019 at the Grand Palais with "Karl For Ever", a celebration of the designer'southward life, which featured a career retrospective highlighting his tenures at Chloé, Fendi, and Chanel.[86] [87] The 90-minute tribute was attended by 2,500 guests. Nearly lx gigantic portraits were on view within the pavilion, which has hosted many Chanel runway collections.[88] The anniversary also included readings and musical performances by Tilda Swinton, Cara Delevingne, Helen Mirren, Pharrell Williams, and Lang Lang. The production was staged by theater and opera managing director Robert Carsen.[89] [90] [91] [92] [93] [94] [95]

Following the memorial, the house of Karl Lagerfeld announced in July 2019 the development of "The White Shirt Projection".[96] In homage to its eponymous founder, this collaboration celebrates the late designer's legacy with a collection of reimagined, iconic white shirts.[97] [98]

Lagerfeld once said: "If you ask me what I'd almost similar to accept invented in fashion, I'd say the white shirt. For me, the white shirt is the ground of everything. Everything else comes after."[99] [100] [101]

The global project, which was curated past Karl Lagerfeld Style Adviser Carine Roitfeld, features designs from Cara Delevingne, Kate Moss, Tommy Hilfiger, Diane Kruger, Takashi Murakami, Amber Valletta, and[99] [102] British street artist, Endless, amongst others.[103]

Seven was Lagerfeld's favorite number, and as such, 7 of the concluding designs will be replicated 77 times and sold for €777 each from 26 September 2019. All gain will benefit the French charity Sauver La Vie, which funds medical inquiry at the Paris Descartes Academy.[98] [104] [105]

Controversies [edit]

During his career, Lagerfeld faced many controversies and was defendant of being fatphobic,[106] [107] Islamophobic,[108] of opposing the Me Too movement.[107] [109]

At that place was much controversy from Lagerfeld's apply of a poesy from the Qur'an in his spring 1994 couture drove for Chanel, despite apologies from the designer and the fashion house. The controversy erupted after the 1994 couture show in Paris, when the Indonesian Muslim Scholars Council in Jakarta called for a boycott of Chanel and threatened to file formal protests with the government of Lagerfeld's homeland, Germany. The designer apologized, explaining that he had taken the design from a volume near the Taj Mahal, thinking the words came from a dearest poem.[76]

Lagerfeld was a supporter of the use of fur in manner, although he himself did not wear fur and hardly ate meat. In a BBC interview in 2009, he claimed that hunters "make a living having learnt nothing else than hunting, killing those beasts who would kill usa if they could" and maintained: "In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for shoes and clothes and fifty-fifty handbags, the discussion of fur is kittenish." Spokespersons for People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) chosen Lagerfeld "a fashion dinosaur who is as out of step as his furs are out of style",[110] and "particularly delusional with his kill-or-exist-killed mentality. When was the last time a person'south life was threatened past a mink or rabbit?"[111] In 2001, he was the target of a pieing at a fashion premiere at Lincoln Eye in New York City. All the same, the tofu pies hurled by animate being rights activists in protestation against his utilize of fur within his collections went astray, instead hitting Calvin Klein. A PETA spokesperson described the hitting on Klein as "friendly burn down", calling Klein, who does non use fur, "a bully friend to the animals" and Lagerfeld a "designer dinosaur", who continues to use fur in his collections.[112] In 2010, after Lagerfeld used imitation fur in his 2010 Chanel drove, PETA's website claimed: "It's the triumph of faux fur ... because imitation fur changed and then much and became so great now that you can hardly come across a departure".[113]

Lagerfeld in 2009 joined critics of supermodel Heidi Klum, following German designer Wolfgang Joop's remarks nigh Klum, who had posed naked on the comprehend of the German edition of GQ mag. Joop described Klum every bit beingness "no rail model. She is only also heavy and has besides big a bust".[114] [115] Lagerfeld commented that neither he nor Claudia Schiffer knew Klum, as she had never worked in Paris, and that she was insignificant in the globe of high mode, being "more bling bling and glamorous than current fashion".[116] He created an international furore on nine February 2012, when he chosen the singer Adele "a little too fatty."[117] Adele responded that she is like the majority of women, and she is very proud of that fact.[118] Lagerfeld later caused another controversy, on 31 July 2012, when he criticised Pippa Middleton, the sister of Kate Middleton, for her looks.[119] [120]

His caricature drawing Harvey Schweinstein, that shows film producer Harvey Weinstein equally a pig, was criticised as antisemitic and dehumanizing.[121] He sparked controversy by criticizing High german Chancellor Angela Merkel's immigration policy during the European migrant crunch past saying, "You cannot kill millions of Jews and and so take in millions of their worst enemies later, even if in that location are decades [between the events]", and by accusing her to accept thereby caused the rise of the party Alternative for Germany (AfD).[122] [123]

Lagerfeld stated in 2007 that his controversial persona was an act.[107]

References [edit]

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  33. ^ Morris, Bernadine (28 Oct 1977). "Exuberance Ruled French Fashion Week". The New York Times: A18. Retrieved 27 March 2022. The virtually‐applauded collections...were those of the giants, Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe and Yves Saint Laurent.
  34. ^ Morris, Bernadine (3 Apr 1974). "At Paris Shows, the Fabric is Flowing". The New York Times: 48. Retrieved 10 February 2022. Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé['s]...long‐term obsession with the nineteen‐thirties...
  35. ^ Morris, Bernadine (iii Apr 1973). "At the Paris Shows, Lots of Smoke just Not Much Fire". The New York Times: 38. Retrieved 28 February 2022. Chloe's Karl Lagerfeld...worked himself up from the 1940's to the 1950's.
  36. ^ Morris, Bernadine (3 April 1974). "At Paris Shows, the Fabric is Flowing". The New York Times: 48. Retrieved x February 2022. The difference with Lagerfeld'southward things is that all inner structure, and practically all seams, take been eliminated. That means no linings, no interfacing, not even any turned‐under hems—the textile has simply been cutting off at the lesser.
  37. ^ Hyde, Nina South. (29 March 1977). "Paris Looks: Casanova to Puss 'n' Boots". The Washington Post . Retrieved ten February 2022. It was Lagerfeld who first took the shaping and the linings out of clothes...He also removed hemlines entirely to brand dress lighter and more easily layered....'[Y]ou cannot go back to lined clothing, because...dress today must be low-cal and loose'.
  38. ^ Morris, Bernadine (21 September 1976). "A Designer Gets Alee of Himself". The New York Times: 56. Retrieved 27 March 2022. [H]e went on. 'You can't take basic and wires...If nosotros become back to linings, then we are returning to the manner things were, non looking ahead.'
  39. ^ Morris, Bernadine (21 September 1976). "A Designer Gets Ahead of Himself". The New York Times: 56. Retrieved 27 March 2022. A designer'southward designer, he is watched carefully for his innovations, which are equally technical as finding ways to avoid linings, eliminating seams whenever possible and finishing hems with overcast stitches instead of turned‐under hems. All this in the interest of keeping dress light and fluid.
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External links [edit]

  • Official website (in German)
  • The New Yorker: John Colapinto: "In the Now: Where Karl Lagerfeld Lives." Extensive profile (c. ten,000 words)
  • The Independent: Susannah Frankel (5 November 2011): "Being Karl Lagerfeld: What's it similar being the most powerful man in mode?"
  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.

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